Picnic on the Beach Week 1

Welcome to my ‘Picnic on the Beach’ blanket which was a crochet-along I hosted here on my blog from February – April 2021. 

All the original blog posts with the pattern, step by step photos and links to all the video tutorials remain here on my blog (go to the menu to access each week).

The full pattern in both UK and US crochet terminology is now also available over in my Ravelry and Etsy Stores.
Here are the links…

Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/picnic-on-the-beach-blanket

Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/988529628/picnic-on-the-beach-blanket

And yarn packs are available from The knitting Network (I earn a little commission if they are purchased through these links):

Summer Yarn Pack: www.theknittingnetwork.co.uk

Autumn Yarn Pack: www.theknittingnetwork.co.uk

Here’s the original Week 1:

Welcome! 😃💙

This is exciting… it’s time for our ‘Picnic on the Beach’ to begin! I’m so looking forward to sharing the next 8 weeks with you all and whether you’re crocheting along or following from the sidelines, you’re all very welcome!

It’s the picnic theme that I’m particularly excited about… are you ready to crochet together and make this blanket whilst thinking about all things picnic related?! Because it’s these carefree and social picnic gatherings that so many of us have missed during this difficult pandemic. ❤️

And whilst many of us still can’t meet face to face for an actual picnic (in the UK we’re still in a lockdown), let’s enjoy this virtual picnic and connect with each other all over the world! ☺️❤️

All the introductory information about this blanket if you missed it can be found here… Introduction to Picnic on the Beach and yarn packs are still available from the Knitting Network with international delivery once again available: 🙂

https://www.theknittingnetwork.co.ukpicnic-on-the-beach-cal

And here’s a little introduction video I recorded earlier in the week with an extra surprise! My eldest son, Morgan, has composed, performed and produced a piece of music especially for ‘Coastal Crochet’!! 🙂 Isn’t that amazing… ‘Coastal Crochet’ now has its very own theme tune which you can listen to in the video… 😄🎵🎶❤️

Click here:

Just like on an actual picnic, with new foods as well as tasty old favourites, in this blanket there will be lots of variety! 😊 We’ll be kept on our toes and there will be surprising moments, with the discovery of new and interesting stitches, some you’ve maybe not tried before. But there will also be those comfortable, relaxing times with simple pleasures, as we crochet some familiar stitches and do easier mindful crochet. It’s a real picnic feast to enjoy! 🙂

So to kick us off in this first week, we’re simply thinking about the essentials we need to take on a picnic… Will you bring a blanket or a tablecloth and what are we going to sit on?

What foods and drinks will you pack? Juicy strawberries or blackberries depending on the season… and then which delicious drinks?

And then there’s the quintessential picnic basket! How will we carry the food and drinks?

The Gingham Checks, Coloured Bobbles and Basketweave stitches we’ll be crocheting this week are inspired by all these picnic plans and will make us all think about what to take along… 🙂

But before we get started, here are some CAL tips to really help you get the most out of the experience…

CAL Tips!

  1. Enjoy it and remember it’s not a race! It’s wonderful that everyone is crocheting the same pattern at around the same time but don’t worry if you fall behind. Go at a pace that suits you and if you don’t finish a week in time then it really doesn’t matter. The pattern will continue to be available long after the CAL is finished so don’t put pressure on yourself. And if you’re speedy and finished before the end of the week then feel free to take on another project or maybe crochet a second blanket!

  1. Make sure you weave in your ends at the end of each week. There will be lots of ends to weave in – this is a blanket with lots of colour changes. Weaving them in as we go makes the whole process much easier and more manageable than leaving them all to the last week. You might regret it if you don’t weave them in as you go!

  1. Embrace the CAL community. There will be lots of people from all over the world crocheting this blanket at the same time. So do share your progress photos, ask questions (there’s no such thing as a silly question) and encourage each other. The Facebook Group ‘Coastal Crochet’ is a great place to get to know each other or on Instagram you can share using the hashtags #picniconthebeachblanket #picniconthebeachcal and #coastalcrochetcal

  1. Don’t struggle on your own. The beauty of a CAL is that you know there are lots of people crocheting this blanket at the same time as you. There will be a vast array of experience with some people who have crocheted for years and others just starting out. Please do ask questions and look closely at the step-by-step photos. Don’t over think the pattern. Read it slowly and do exactly what it says. If it still doesn’t make sense to you, then do ask and someone will help! Crocheter’s are a friendly bunch… 🙂

  1. There are no rights or wrongs in crochet, just good or bad results! If you’re comfortable or happy with a certain technique or way of doing things that doesn’t quite follow the pattern then it’s entirely up to you how you crochet but others may want to follow the pattern precisely. The pattern is a guide to give you the exact same results as the designer but it’s your blanket and if you want to change something or do something a little differently then that’s perfectly ok.

  1. Spread the word! Crochet really does make the world a better place. Aren’t we lucky to be able to make such beautiful things with just one hook and a piece of yarn. Be proud of the art you’ve created with your hooks. Tell your family, your friends, your neighbours and anyone who will listen! And maybe you’ll inspire the next new crocheter who can crochet along with us next time… 🙂

So let’s get crocheting!

Printer friendly PDF pattern available:

There’s a printer friendly PDF pattern available to purchase on my Ravelry in both UK and US crochet terms. You only pay once and each week the next instalment will be added to the pattern which you will have full access to, so that at the end of the 8 weeks you’ll have the full pattern to keep. It’s a lovely way to support my work… thank you! 🙂

Pattern on Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/picnic-on-the-beach-blanket

The written pattern, with lots of photos and all the links to YouTube tutorials for this week, is also available for free below in UK crochet terms. At the very end of this blog post I’ve provided the pattern in US terms too.

Free pattern below…

And just thinking ahead to next week, we’ll be arriving at the beach and our stitches will be inspired by a classic beach scene. Please do have a think about your favourite picnic spots and places to go to and start sharing them in the Facebook Group or on Instagram! I’d love to see… to get you started here’s a few of mine…

A little way east along the coast from us we have the beautiful famous landmark of the ‘Seven Sisters’ chalk cliffs and then there’s the seaside town of Eastbourne… both are perfect picnic spots and I’ve eaten many a sandwich whilst admiring these views over the years… we love to visit!

That grassy spot there looks like the perfect spot to set up a picnic doesn’t it!? 😄

And then further afield to the west I have happy memories of enjoying a picnic with my family by Durdle Door in Dorset a few years ago…

And then even further afield I remember enjoying the biggest and juiciest strawberries on this beautiful beach in Northern Spain!

So here goes…this is what we’ll be crocheting in Week 1 – enjoy! 😃❤️

For details about yarn quantities and colours have a look art the Introductions blog post here: https://coastalcrochet.com/2021/01/21/an-introduction-to-picnic-on-the-beach/

Tension

17 standard treble stitches across and 10 rows measures 10cm x 10cm. I recommend a 4.0mm hook as a starting point. If you have less stitches, then your tension is looser and you should go down a hook size. If you have more stitches, then your tension is tighter and you should go up a hook size. I recommend that you crochet a small tension square to really see which hook size will suit you best and give you results you will be happy with.

Abbreviations in UK Crochet Terminology. US terms are at the end of this blog post.

ch: chain

ch-sp(s): chain space(s) 

dc: double crochet 

dtr: double treble 

htr: half treble

mm: millimetres 

RquadtrF: Raised quadruple treble front (see below)

RquintrF: Raised quintuple treble front (see below)

RdtrF: Raised double treble front (see below)

RdtrF3tog: Raised double treble front three stitches together (see below)

RS: right side 

RtrB: Raised treble back (see below)

RtrF: Raised treble front (see below)

RtrB3tog: Raised treble back three stitches together (see below)

RtrF5tog: Raised treble front five stitches together (see below)

RtrtrF: Raised triple treble front (see below)

ss: slip stitch 

st(s): stitch(es) 

tr: treble

tr2tog: treble 2 stitches together

tr4tog: treble 4 stitches together

trtr: triple treble

WS: wrong side

yoh: yarn over hook

Bobble: Complete all the following in the same stitch: with contrasting colour yarn, *yarn over hook (yoh), insert hook into st, yoh, pull contrasting yarn through to front, yoh, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * 5 times more (you should now have 6 contrasting colour loops and 1 main colour loop on hook), pull main colour yarn through all the loops on the hook (1 bobble made), continue with main colour, push bobble towards front of work, carry contrasting colour yarn along behind work and crochet next stitches around it to carry yarn along invisibly behind the work.

Berry Bobble: Leave Yarn on the hook and continue with all the following in the same st: (using Yarn F yoh, insert hook into st, yoh and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops) two times, (using Yarn C, yoh, insert hook into same st, yoh and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops) 4 times (there should now be 1 loop in Yarn D, 2 loops in Yarn F and 4 loops in Yarn C on the hook), using Yarn D, yoh and pull through all 7 loops on hook. 

Pineapple Cluster: (yoh, insert hook into st, yoh, pull up a loop) 4 times, yoh, pull through first 8 loops, yoh, pull through remaining 2 loops.

RdtrF: Raised double treble Front: complete a double treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 2 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

RdtrF3tog: Raised double treble front three stitches together: *complete a double treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

RquadtrF: Raised quadruple treble Front: complete a quadruple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 4 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

RquintrF: Raised quintuple treble Front: complete a quintuple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 5 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

RtrB: Raised treble Back: complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again.

RtrB3tog: Raised treble back three stitches together: *complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

RtrF: Raised treble Front: complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

RtrF5togRaised treble front five stitches together: *complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 4 sts, (there should now be 6 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

RtrtrF: Raised triple treble Front: complete a triple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

Tunisian Entrelac Crochet Pattern Notes

  • Each Row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of two stages. The Forward Pass (FwdP) and Return Pass (RetP). You do not turn the work at all, so you will be working with the front (right side) of the work facing you at all times and it looks very different to the rear of the work.
  • Tunisian Entrelac crochet is a technique based on Tunisian crochet. Tunisian crochet usually requires a special long hook but Tunisian Entrelac crochet uses an ordinary standard crochet hook because the squares are small and in this pattern there are only 6 stitches / loops on the hook at a time. 
  • Tunisian crochet produces a dense fabric so it is recommended to go up half a hook size to what you would usually use for the yarn.
  • Tunisian crochet tends to curl. When we crochet around the gingham square for the rest of the blanket, the curl will no longer be noticeable.
  • The Tunisian Entrelac pattern is worked using a ‘corner to corner’ (C2C) construction. This approach starts with one square in the bottom corner and then builds up the work like little bricks, working diagonally across, increasing to 2 squares in the next diagonal row, 3 squares in the next, and so on.
  • The gingham pattern does create lots of ends but it’s worth it! It’s a good idea to weave these ends in as you go making it more manageable.

Abbreviations for Tunisian Crochet

Explanations on how to do the stitches are on the next page.

Tss: Tunisian Simple Stitch, 

FwdP: Forward Pass,

FwdP for joining: Forward Pass for joining,

RetP: Return Pass,

RetP for joining: Return Pass for joining.

The following are all worked in standard Tunisian Simple Stitches (Tss)

Forward Pass (FwdP): The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work, * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh, pull up a loop and leave loop on hook (1 stitch), repeat from * 4 times more to end of row. [6 sts]

Return Pass (RetP): Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook. 

The Forward pass will end differently when completing squares which are being joined together. We will call this FwdP for joining and it will be worked as follows:

FwdP for joining: * Insert hook from side to side behind the next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * 3 times more, insert hook into side of row on adjacent square you are joining to and pull up a loop (there should now be 6 loops on the hook)

The Return Pass will start differently when completing squares which are being joined together. We will call this RetP for joining. The only difference is that at the start of the return pass you will pull through the first 2 loops instead of just 1 as follows:

RetP for joining: *Yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Bind off: The final row of each square is called ‘binding off’ which is basic slip stitches (ss) and completed as follows: Skip vertical bar on edge of work, * insert hook behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull through both loops on hook to make a ss, repeat from * across to end.

HERE’S THE PATTERN:

To Work

Week 1 – Picnic Essentials!

This large central square combines different crochet techniques, and all the yarn colours are used. Inspired by some of the essentials to take on a picnic… a rug, blanket or even a tablecloth, thinking about the picnic food and of course take that picnic basket!

Tunisian Entrelac Gingham Square

Tunisian Entrelac uses a ‘corner to corner’ construction. Start with one square in the bottom left corner and build up the work like little bricks, working diagonally across, increasing to 2 squares in the second diagonal row, 3 squares in the next, and so on. Follow the colour charts below.

And here’s a YouTube tutorial I’ve recorded for these gingham checked squares… hope it helps!

AUTUMN PICNIC GINGHAM:

SUMMER PICNIC GINGHAM:

Diagonal Row 1

Square 1

Using Yarn A and a 4.5mm hook make 6ch.

Row 1 Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * in each of next 3 ch to end (there should now be 6 loops on the hook which is 6 sts)

Complete standard RetP as follows: Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Row 2 FwdP: The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on very edge of work. * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook (1 stitch), repeat from * 4 times more to end of row. [6 sts]

Complete standard RetP.

Rows 3 – 4 Repeat Row 2 working standard FwdP and RetP.

Row 5 Bind off: * Insert hook behind next vertical bar and work a ss, repeat from * across to end, fasten off.

This is the first square complete.

Diagonal Row 2

Square 2

Join Yarn B to bottom right corner of square to side of Row 1 going under 2 strands at edge of work and make 5ch.

Row 1 Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * 2 times more, insert hook into side of Row 1 on adjacent square in the same place where yarn was joined and pull up a loop. [6 loops on the hook]

Complete RetP for joining as follows: *Yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Row 2 FwdP for joining: * Insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 3 times more, insert hook into side of corresponding row on adjacent square and pull up a loop. [6 loops on the hook]

Complete RetP for joining.

Rows 3 – 4 Repeat Row 2 working FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a ss behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with ss in top right st on adjacent square, do not fasten off.

Square 3

Row 1 * Insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar on square below, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 4 times to end of row. [6 loops on the hook]

Because this is an outer square not being joined to another square at the side, complete standard RetP as follows: Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.  

Rows 2 – 4 Complete standard FwdP and standard RetP.

Row 5 Bind off, fasten off.

Diagonal Row 3

Square 4 

Using Yarn A follow instructions for Square 2, joining with Yarn C at end of final ss of Bind off row.

Square 5 

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a ss behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with ss in top right st on adjacent square, joining with Yarn A at end of final ss.

Square 6 

Follow instructions for Square 3.

Diagonal Row 4

Square 7

Using Yarn B follow instructions for Square 2.

Square 8 and Square 9

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a ss behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with ss in top right st on adjacent square, do not fasten off.

Square 10

Follow instructions for Square 3.

Diagonal Rows 5 – 9

Alternate between repeating squares in Diagonal Row 3 and Diagonal Row 4, increasing by one square in the middle of each row. Each row begins with a square crocheted like Square 2 and ends with a square crocheted like Square 3. The middle squares are crocheted using FwdP for joining and RetP for joining like Square 5. Continue to build the squares in this way, changing colour at the end of the final ss of the bind off row as indicated on the colour chart above to create the gingham effect, until there are 9 squares in total across at the bottom and 9 squares in total in height.

Diagonal Rows 10 – 17

The number of squares on each diagonal row will now decrease so the work no longer increases in width or height. Join yarn above the outer right square into the top right st. Each square is then made as follows:

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a ss behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with ss in top right st on adjacent square.

Pay attention to the colour changes as indicated on the colour chart above. End the final square of each diagonal row next to the top left square by working a slip stich into top right st of this square at top of work and fasten off.

Continue until the final square and a complete gingham square has been created, fasten off and weave in ends.

Traditional crochet stitches will now be crocheted around the whole gingham square and the work is turned at the end of each round.

Here’s a YouTube tutorial for Rounds 1 and 2, crocheting around our Gingham checks:

With RS facing and Tunisian gingham square held upright, using a 4.0mm hook join Yarn D to top left square to the side of the top row on outer left edge ensuring 2 stands of yarn are picked up.

Round 1 (RS) 1ch (does not count as st), * 1dc into side of each of 4 rows across first square (ensuring 2 strands are picked up), continue evenly down side edge working 1dc into side of each of the 4 rows across each square, at the bottom corner make 2ch and continue along bottom edge with 4dc evenly across each square, at the next corner make 2ch, repeat from * for next side edge and top edge, at final corner make 2ch, ss to first dc to join, turn. [36 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Round 2 (WS) 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout), *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in corner ch-sp, 1tr in each st to end of side, repeat from * two times, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in corner ch-sp, 1tr in each st to end, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off, turn. [40 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Round 3 (RS) Re-join Yarn D to any corner ch-sp, 3ch (counts as 1 dc and 2 ch), 1dc in same corner ch-sp, *1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1 bobble with Yarn E in next st, (1dc in each of next 4 sts, 1 bobble with Yarn E in next st) seven times, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, **(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, ss to first ch of beginning 3 ch, do not fasten off, turn. [42 sts on each side including 8 bobbles]

Here’s a YouTube tutorial for how to crochet the contrasting coloured bobbles in Round 3:

Round 4 (WS) 3ch, * 1tr in each st to end of side, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, ss to top of first 3 ch, turn. [46 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

And now we have some Berry Bobbles to crochet!

Round 5 (RS) 1ch (counts as first dc), * 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st, 1dc in next st, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in corner ch-sp, 1dc in next st, 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st, 1dc in each of next 20 sts, 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st **, 1dc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, 1dc in each of next 20 sts, ss to first ch, turn. [48 sts on each side including 3 bobbles]

Here’s a YouTube tutorial for how to crochet the Berry Bobbles in Round 5:

Round 6 3ch, *1tr in each st to end of side, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, 1tr in each of next 3 sts, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [52 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Basketweave Rounds

Here’s a YouTube tutorial for how to crochet the Basketweave Rounds 7 -12

Round 7 (RS) Join Yarn G to any corner ch-sp, 2ch (counts as first htr), * (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrF around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts) four times**, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, (1htr, 2ch) in final corner ch-sp, ss to top of first 2 ch, turn. [54 sts on each side]

Round 8 (WS) 2ch, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in next corner ch-sp, * 1htr in first st of next side, (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrB around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1htr in final st of side, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 2 ch, turn. [56 sts on each side]

Round 9 (RS) 2ch, * (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrB around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp**, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, repeat from * three timesending final repeat at **, 1htr in final st, ss to top of first 2 ch, turn. [58 sts on each side]

Round 10 (WS) 2ch, 1RtrB around next 2 sts, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, * 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrF around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 2 ch, turn. [60 sts on each side]

Round 11 (RS) 2ch, * (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrF around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1htr in final st of side, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, 1htr in first st of next side**,1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **,1RtrB around each of next 2 sts, ss to top of first 2 ch, turn. [62 sts on each side]

Round 12 (WS) 2ch, 1RtrF around each of next 2 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 2 sts, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, * 1RtrB around each of next 2 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, (1RtrB around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts,) four times, 1RtrB around each of next 4 sts, (1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1RtrF around each of next 3 sts, 1RtrB around each of next 2 sts, (1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 2 ch, fasten off and weave in ends. [64 sts on each side]

And that’s Week 1 complete! A wonderful start to our Picnics which I hope you enjoyed as much as I did… 🙂

Until next week… Happy Crocheting Everyone! 🙂 🙂

Pattern in US Crochet Terminology

Abbreviations

ch: chain

ch-sp(s): chain space(s) 

dc: double crochet 

dtr: double treble 

hdc: half double crochet

mm: millimetres 

FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble (see below)

FPquadtr: Front Post quadruple treble (see below)

FPtr: Front Post treble (see below)

FPtr3tog: Front Post treble three stitches together (see below)

RS: right side 

BPdc: Back Post double crochet (see below)

FPdc: Front Post double crochet (see below)

BPdc3tog: Back Post double crochet three stitches together (see below)

FPdc5tog: Front Post double crochet five stitches together (see below)

FPdtr: Front Post double treble (see below)

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch 

st(s): stitch(es) 

tr: treble

dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

dc4tog: double crochet 4 stitches together

WS: wrong side

yoh: yarn over hook

Bobble: Complete all the following in the same stitch: with contrasting colour yarn, *yarn over hook (yoh), insert hook into st, yoh, pull contrasting yarn through to front, yoh, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * 5 times more (you should now have 6 contrasting colour loops and 1 main colour loop on hook), pull main colour yarn through all the loops on the hook (1 bobble made), continue with main colour, push bobble towards front of work, carry contrasting colour yarn along behind work and crochet next stitches around it to carry yarn along invisibly behind the work.

Berry Bobble: Leave Yarn on the hook and continue with all the following in the same st: (using Yarn F yoh, insert hook into st, yoh and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops) two times, (using Yarn C, yoh, insert hook into same st, yoh and pull up a loop, yoh and pull through 2 loops) 4 times (there should now be 1 loop in Yarn D, 2 loops in Yarn F and 4 loops in Yarn C on the hook), using Yarn D, yoh and pull through all 7 loops on hook. 

BPdc: Back Post double crochet: complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again.

BPdc3tog: Back Post double crochet three stitches together: *complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

FPdc: Front Post double crochet: complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

FPdc5tog: Front Post double crochet five stitches together: *complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 4 sts, (there should now be 6 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

FPdtr: Front Post double treble: complete a double treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

FPtr: Front Post treble: complete a treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 2 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

FPtr3tog: Front Post treble three stitches together: *complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.

FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble: complete a triple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 4 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

FPquadtr: Front Post quadruple treble: complete a quadruple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 5 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.

Pineapple Cluster: (yoh, insert hook into st, yoh, pull up a loop) 4 times, yoh, pull through first 8 loops, yoh, pull through remaining 2 loops.

Tunisian Entrelac Crochet Pattern Notes

  • Each Row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of two stages. The Forward Pass (FwdP) and Return Pass (RetP). You do not turn the work at all, so you will be working with the front (right side) of the work facing you at all times and it looks very different to the rear of the work.
  • Tunisian Entrelac crochet is a technique based on Tunisian crochet. Tunisian crochet usually requires a special long hook but Tunisian Entrelac crochet uses an ordinary standard crochet hook because the squares are small and in this pattern there are only 6 stitches / loops on the hook at a time. 
  • Tunisian crochet produces a dense fabric so it is recommended to go up half a hook size to what you would usually use for the yarn.
  • Tunisian crochet tends to curl. When we crochet around the gingham square for the rest of the blanket, the curl will no longer be noticeable.
  • The Tunisian Entrelac pattern is worked using a ‘corner to corner’ (C2C) construction. This approach starts with one square in the bottom corner and then builds up the work like little bricks, working diagonally across, increasing to 2 squares in the next diagonal row, 3 squares in the next, and so on.
  • The gingham pattern does create lots of ends but it’s worth it! It’s a good idea to weave these ends in as you go making it more manageable.

Abbreviations for Tunisian Crochet

Explanations on how to do the stitches are on the next page.

Tss: Tunisian Simple Stitch, 

FwdP: Forward Pass,

FwdP for joining: Forward Pass for joining,

RetP: Return Pass,

RetP for joining: Return Pass for joining.

The following are all worked in standard Tunisian Simple Stitches (Tss)

Forward Pass (FwdP): The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work, * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh, pull up a loop and leave loop on hook (1 stitch), repeat from * 4 times more to end of row. [6 sts]

Return Pass (RetP): Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook. 

The Forward pass will end differently when completing squares which are being joined together. We will call this FwdP for joining and it will be worked as follows:

FwdP for joining: * Insert hook from side to side behind the next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * 3 times more, insert hook into side of row on adjacent square you are joining to and pull up a loop (there should now be 6 loops on the hook)

The Return Pass will start differently when completing squares which are being joined together. We will call this RetP for joining. The only difference is that at the start of the return pass you will pull through the first 2 loops instead of just 1 as follows:

RetP for joining: *Yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Bind off: The final row of each square is called ‘binding off’ which is basic slip stitches (sl st) and completed as follows: Skip vertical bar on edge of work, * insert hook behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull through both loops on hook to make a sl st, repeat from * across to end.

To Work

Week 1 – Picnic Essentials!

This large central square combines different crochet techniques, and all the yarn colours are used. Inspired by some of the essentials to take on a picnic… a rug, blanket or even a tablecloth, thinking about the picnic food and of course take that picnic basket!

Tunisian Entrelac Gingham Square

Tunisian Entrelac uses a ‘corner to corner’ construction. Start with one square in the bottom left corner and build up the work like little bricks, working diagonally across, increasing to 2 squares in the second diagonal row, 3 squares in the next, and so on. Follow the colour charts above. I have recorded a full YouTube tutorial for these squares to help if needed.

Diagonal Row 1

Square 1

Using Yarn A and a 4.5mm (US 7) hook make 6ch.

Row 1 Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * in each of next 3 ch to end (there should now be 6 loops on the hook which is 6 sts)

Complete standard RetP as follows: Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Row 2 FwdP: The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on very edge of work. * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook (1 stitch), repeat from * 4 times more to end of row. [6 sts]

Complete standard RetP.

Rows 3 – 4 Repeat Row 2 working standard FwdP and RetP.

Row 5 Bind off: * Insert hook behind next vertical bar and work a sl st, repeat from * across to end, fasten off.

This is the first square complete.

Diagonal Row 2

Square 2

Join Yarn B to bottom right corner of square to side of Row 1 going under 2 strands at edge of work and make 5ch.

Row 1 Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * 2 times more, insert hook into side of Row 1 on adjacent square in the same place where yarn was joined and pull up a loop. [6 loops on the hook]

Complete RetP for joining as follows: *Yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Row 2 FwdP for joining: * Insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 3 times more, insert hook into side of corresponding row on adjacent square and pull up a loop. [6 loops on the hook]

Complete RetP for joining.

Rows 3 – 4 Repeat Row 2 working FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a sl st behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with sl st in top right st on adjacent square, do not fasten off.

Square 3

Row 1 * Insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar on square below, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 4 times to end of row. [6 loops on the hook]

Because this is an outer square not being joined to another square at the side, complete standard RetP as follows: Yoh and pull through first loop on hook, *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.  

Rows 2 – 4 Complete standard FwdP and standard RetP.

Row 5 Bind off, fasten off.

Diagonal Row 3

Square 4 

Using Yarn A follow instructions for Square 2, joining with Yarn C at end of final sl st of Bind off row.

Square 5 

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a sl st behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with sl st in top right st on adjacent square, joining with Yarn A at end of final sl st.

Square 6 

Follow instructions for Square 3.

Diagonal Row 4

Square 7

Using Yarn B follow instructions for Square 2.

Squares 8 and 9

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a sl st behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with sl st in top right st on adjacent square, do not fasten off.

Square 10

Follow instructions for Square 3.

Diagonal Rows 5 – 9

Alternate between repeating squares in Diagonal Row 3 and Diagonal Row 4, increasing by one square in the middle of each row. Each row begins with a square crocheted like Square 2 and ends with a square crocheted like Square 3. The middle squares are crocheted using FwdP for joining and RetP for joining like Square 5. Continue to build the squares in this way, changing colour at the end of the final sl st of the bind off row as indicated on the colour chart above to create the gingham effect, until there are 9 squares in total across at the bottom and 9 squares in total in height.

Diagonal Rows 10 – 17

The number of squares on each diagonal row will now decrease so the work no longer increases in width or height. Join yarn above the outer right square into the top right st. Each square is then made as follows:

Rows 1 – 4 Complete FwdP for joining and RetP for joining.

Row 5 Bind off working a sl st behind each of next 4 vertical bars, finish with sl st in top right st on adjacent square.

Pay attention to the colour changes as indicated on the colour chart above. End the final square of each diagonal row next to the top left square by working a slip stich into top right st of this square at top of work and fasten off.

Continue until the final square and a complete gingham square has been created, fasten off and weave in ends.

The gingham checked central square is now complete. Traditional crochet stitches will now be crocheted around the whole gingham square and the work is turned at the end of each round.

With RS facing and Tunisian gingham square held upright, using smaller 4.0mmhook join Yarn D to top left square to the side of the top row on outer left edge ensuring 2 strands of yarn are picked up.

Round 1 (RS) 1ch (does not count as st), * 1sc into side of each of 4 rows across first square (ensuring 2 strands are picked up), continue evenly down side edge working 1sc into side of each of the 4 rows across each square, at the bottom corner make 2ch and continue along bottom edge with 4sc evenly across each square, at the next corner make 2ch, repeat from * for next side edge and top edge, at final corner make 2ch, sl st to first sc to join, turn. [36 sts on each sidewith 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Round 2 (WS) 3ch (counts as first dc here and throughout), *(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in corner ch-sp, 1dc in each st to end of side, repeat from * two times, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in corner ch-sp, 1dc in each st to end, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off, turn. [40 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Round 3 (RS) Re-join Yarn D to any corner ch-sp, 3ch (counts as 1 sc and 2 ch), 1sc in same corner ch-sp, *1sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 bobble with Yarn E in next st, (1sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 bobble with Yarn E in next st) seven times, 1sc in each of next 2 sts, **(1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three timesending final repeat at **, sl st to first ch of beginning 3 ch, do not fasten off, turn.[42 sts on each side including 8 bobbles]

Round 4 (WS) 3ch, * 1dc in each st to end of side, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, sl st to top of first 3 ch, turn. [46 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Round 5 (RS) 1ch (counts as first sc), * 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st, 1sc in next st, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch-sp, 1sc in next st, 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st, 1sc in each of next 20 sts, 1 berry bobble with Yarns F and C in next st **, 1sc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, 1sc in each of next 20 sts, sl st to first ch, turn. [48 sts on each side including 3 bobbles]

Round 6 3ch, *1dc in each st to end of side, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [52 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]

Basketweave Rounds

Round 7 (RS) Join Yarn G to any corner ch-sp, 2ch (counts as first hdc), * (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1FPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times**, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, (1hdc, 2ch) in final corner ch-sp, sl st to top of first 2 ch, turn. [54 sts on each side]

Round 8 (WS) 2ch, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in next corner ch-sp, * 1hdc in first st of next side, (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1BPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1hdc in final st of side, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 2 ch, turn. [56 sts on each side]

Round 9 (RS) 2ch, * (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1BPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1hdc in each of next 2 sts, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp**, 1hdc in each of next 2 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, 1hdc in final st, sl st to top of first 2 ch, turn. [58 sts on each side]

Round 10 (WS) 2ch, 1BPdc around next 2 sts, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, * 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1FPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 2 ch, turn. [60 sts on each side]

Round 11 (RS) 2ch, * (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1FPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1hdc in final st of side, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, 1hdc in first st of next side**, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **,1BPdc around each of next 2 sts, sl st to top of first 2 ch, turn. [62 sts on each side]

Round 12 (WS) 2ch, 1FPdc around each of next 2 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 2 sts, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, * 1BPdc around each of next 2 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, (1BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts,) four times, 1BPdc around each of next 4 sts, (1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 3 sts) four times**, 1FPdc around each of next 3 sts, 1BPdc around each of next 2 sts, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 2 ch, fasten off and weave in ends. [64 sts on each side]

68 comments

      1. Pattern purchased. Week 1 downloaded. Yippee. Will have time to read but then will be away from home and hook until maybe Wednesday. Deep breath 🥰

  1. That’s an astonishingly comprehensive tutorial…the best I have ever seen. We ok done and thank you, a lot of hard work on your part!

  2. Pattern purchased. I prefer to work from a paper Pattern. I’m so looking forward to this!
    Absolutely lovely piece of music by Morgan. Well done young man. This blanket CAL is filling me with hope for a glorious summer season 🌞🌝😁💗

  3. Hi Eleonora, I would like to purchase the pattern, but it seems that I need to get a paypal account wich I don’t want. Ravelry states that I can pay with a credit card as well, but I can’t figure out how. Do you have any suggestions?

    1. i have a paypal account, which I have had for over 10 years with no problems. However, i understand your hesitation. Why not purchase one of those cards for $10 or 20 or $50.00 at the store and use that for purchases online only.

  4. Gosh this is such a long fun packed post . I’ve scrolled down so I can leave a comment . Thank you for your time and commitment to this most welcome cal . I need to take it all in first then I’ll jump straight in

  5. Thank you so much for another fabulous blanket and such great instruction. Your videos are really calm and done at just the right pace with lots of photos too! I’d never have the confidence without these. Xxxx

  6. Thank you Eleonora for such a lovely pattern. Can’t wait to get started – doing the CAL with my housemate so it’ll be the evenings for us. Quick question – the instructions on the website are so clear with the photos. If I purchase the pattern from Ravelry, will the pdf just have the written instructions or does it have all the really helpful photos as well? xx

  7. Hi Eleonora. What an amazing comprehensive tutorial as usual. You really put so much into all your CALs. I still have a few videos to watch because I like to look at everything thoroughly. Off to purchase, download and print pattern now, then I can continue with tutorials later and make a start later today or tomorrow. Thank you so much for all your hard work. You make everything so achievable for everybody.

  8. Looking forward to starting this blanket. But being left handed I’ll have to make adjustments for the gingham square

  9. Hello Eleonora,
    so exciting to see week 1 of picnic blanket. I’m full steam ahead getting Beachcomber finished for Amy so that I can crack on with it with a clean conscience. How wonderful of your son to create that fantastic piece of music for you, it’s beautiful.Very much .look forward to next week , hopefully with pictures of the sea and beach.

  10. Wow – Eleonora what a fabulous video and you have such a talented family. Morgan must have a great future with his talents and your daughter too. I’ve just started on the tutorial for the Tunisian and I’m impressed! Very easy to understand and very clear – you have put a lot of effort into this and it shows. I really look forward to all your blogs and have just finished making your daffs – so good. I’m hooked!

  11. Hi, I’m still on the gingham part of the block, it’s going so well, the video tutorial is excellent, I was a bit concerned about it. Thank you!
    What is the measurement of the gingham square and of the final block? I know it depends on the yarn (being in Brazil and due to the confused pandemic logistics I had to choose from locally produced yarns), but I was wondering if my blanket will end up a much different size.

  12. Wonderfully comprehensive tutorials and pattern. Have loved doing the first week’s work with very new stitches for me!!!! Well done Eleonora I love it.

  13. Thank you so much for this comprehensive post! I’m so excited to begin this project. I purchased and downloaded the pdf pattern through Ravelry. Will I need to download each week’s piece of the project separately, or will the new parts of the pattern be added each week to the initially downloaded pattern? Thank you!

  14. Hello dear Eleonora, after I finished the first part of your CAL Picnic on the Beach in both color variations I just have to leave a comment. I so enjoyed working your pattern! And I just love all the wonderful videos, the introduction and the instruction videos. The music is so lovely, you have a beautiful voice and it’s easy to follow your words and instructions. I’m so happy that I found the CAL project on Ravelry. So happy! Thank you for your wonderful work and your passion for crocheting.

    Love and hugs
    Kerstin

  15. Hi. I have only done basic crochet and Tunisian stitches. Will you be showing how to do the other stitches with videos. Wanted to check before I bought the pattern. Thank you.

  16. I’m a v inexperienced crocheter, but I’m having a go. I’m left handed – do I need to do anything different, and if so, is there a left handed pattern available?

      1. Thanks. I’m still unsure if, apart from starting in the other corner, if there will be anything else that I will have to do differently? I still don’t fully understand the impact that bring left handed has when following a pattern.

  17. Hi, I’m a novice crocheter and also left handed.
    Should I be doing anything different to what is shown in the pattern. I’m going to try to watch the videos with a mirror next to the screen. Any more tips?

  18. Hi, I love the idea of this pattern however it will take me much longer than 8 weeks due to work commitments etc. Will the videos remain on your website after 8 weeks?

  19. I am about to start your wonderful Picnic on the Beach CAL and I have just been watching the first tutorial for the gingham squares. I am in absolute awe of how amazing your instructions and tutorials are. You must have worked tremendously hard to sort all of this out. Just wanted to say a massive thank you – I am so excited to begin this.

  20. Hi Eleonora after five false starts and pull backs I finally got the hang of the gingham squares I now am at the end of week 1 only three days behind but tomorrow I start week 2 . I am loving it immensely look forward to your photos every week, thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us

  21. The POTB is such a pretty blanket. I’m learning new techniques and enjoying it.
    I notice in your videos you use a 4.5 mm hook but written pattern states 4mm. Is this down to preference?

    1. I Shez… I’m so happy you’re enjoying it! 😄💙 Yes, I’m using a 4.5mm. I know that I crochet tighter than many people so I always recommend a 4mm knowing that many people crochet looser… ultimately it’s down to individual tension and personal preference. If 10 crocheters crocheted the same thing with the same hook and yarn you’d be amazed how different all the sizes will be! It’s only an issue when people have bought a yarn pack and then if they crochet much looser than me they risk running out of yarn! 💙💙💙

  22. Just completed pt 1,really enjoying the tutorials and have purchased the pattern.Love the music that accompanies it all.Well done to your son.Thankyou

  23. Hi, Eleonora. I’ve just finished week 1, I already fell in love with this pattern. Thank you so much for sharing this unique and pretty pattern. Do you recommend blocking before starting week 2?

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